When in Tel Aviv you must stroll in the city’s promenade and find your way to Jaffa. Or, take a taxi. If you visit Israel, that is just one thing that you must do. As the city’s history attests, modern day travelers are not the only ones who fell to the seduction of its charm and character. Jaffa is known for its association with the biblical stories of Jonah, Solomon, and Saint Peter. In mythology, Jaffa is associated with Andromeda and Perseus. Its captivating history spans from the Early Antiquity period to Modern Israel, through the Bronze Age, the Iron Age, the Hellenistic and Byzantine periods, the Medieval period, the Ottoman period and the British Mandate
Archaeological evidence shows that the city was already inhabited around the year 7,500 BC. Mythology has that Jaffa, or Yafo, was named after one of Noah’s sons; Japheth. Throughout its history, Jaffa was fought over and conquered by empires, crusaders, and pirates because of its strategic location and harbor. Its harbor has been in use since the Bronze Age, making it one of the oldest in the world. The old port of Jaffa has been in almost continuous operation for the past 4,000 years. That’s where I ended up after a hike on the promenade of Tel-Aviv.
Walking from Tel-Aviv to its southern and oldest part of town, provides with a magnificent view of the beach and the Mediterranean Sea and it is not a long walk. The promenade ends at the Old Port of Jaffa where shops and eateries are certain to catch a visitor’s attention at the moment one sets foot at the old harbor. If you are already in Jaffa or chose to take a taxi or drive yourself, there is still plenty of walking to do while visiting the old city. As it is the case with most ancient cities, there are steps that will take you up and down the alleys and labyrinths of Jaffa.
Although layers upon layers of historical events cover every inch of the city, the landmarks are remarkable testimonies to Israel’s cultural, religious and political identity. Jaffa is greatly significant for Christianity, as it was there that Saint Peter raised Tabitha from the dead according to the Act of the Apostles biblical texts (Acts 9:36-43 and Acts 10:1-4). The Saint Peter’s Church is one of such landmarks built in the Ottoman period in 1654 and dedicated to Saint Peter.
Regardless of religious affiliation or faith, the succession of events embodied in the Saint Peter’s Church is certain to fascinate any visitor. Located over a medieval citadel that was built by Frederick I, later restored by Louis IX of France in the thirteenth century, the church was destroyed twice before it was rebuilt from 1888 to 1894. Among other intriguing facts, except for the windows that depict Tabitha, Francis of Assisi, and the Immaculate Conception, all other windows represent Spanish saints because the church was reconstructed by the Spanish Empire.
The Mosque of the Sea, or the Al-Bahr Mosque, is said to be probably the oldest mosque in Jaffa. Standing on the shores of the Mediterranean in the Old Port of Jaffa area, its minaret with a green dome gives a peculiar character to the skyline of Jaffa. When approaching Jaffa from its northern neighbor, on the promenade of Tel Aviv, the iconic view of the bell tower of the Saint Peter’s Church and the minaret of the Al-Bahr Mosque side by side are reminders of the complexity of history of Jaffa and of Israel. Nonetheless, when you visit Israel the realities of daily coexistence debunks the extraordinary efforts in the media to show only the conflicts of war and disputes.
No matter where you go when you visit Israel or how much time you have left in yours hands, visiting the Jaffa Flea Market is a must do. In the Shuk HaPishpishim, as it is called in Hebrew, treasure hunters are certain to find antiques, handmade and secondhand artifacts from everywhere.
It certainly offers an authentic Middle Eastern market experience. Complete with the haggling, vibrant colors and smells of vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices, the market’s three areas on main street sell antique furniture, carpets and oriental ornaments. In two long covered alleys, clothing, jewelry and souvenirs complete the scene with a lively and colorful bazaar atmosphere.
Every time I visit Israel, I try not to go on organized tours unless it is absolutely necessary or required that I join a tour. Although I suggest them to most people I speak with, I personally prefer spending more time at one location at my leisure. I also enjoy walking, as I love a great hike, and Jaffa offers a fantastic opportunity to do just that. One never knows what lies around the corner!
On my last visit, after a couple of hours exploring the flea market, I discovered a café by pure chance. In fact, it was the smell that came from the café that led me inside. Cafes, restaurants, and bars are typically very busy in the evening in and around the shuk area, but as I walked in, except for three or four people sitting at a small table outside by the door, I was the only customer. Main Bazar is located on Olei Zion 7 Alley and it is a pub with a great, laidback atmosphere. Besides the its local feel, what made my day was the food! Simple, original, and superb!
The hummus at Main Bazar was probably the best I have ever eaten; even compared to other locations in Israel. Not realizing how generous the size of the portions were, the three items I ordered turned out to be a bit too much and I could not eat even half of the servings. In the end, it was the hummus that vanished from my plate.
The surprise came with the check! I could not believe how good the prices were and I probably paid just one-third of what I would have paid in Tel Aviv. By the time I left, the sun had set and the place was then full with locals who seem to know one another and were just ending their day with a happy hour. So next time you visit Israel, eat in Jaffa!