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From the Shores to the Mountains

Sculptured Beach - Point Reyes National Seashore, California
Travelling With Me | Miles of hiking trails overlooking the Pacific Ocean and pristine beaches

For the rest of the morning and early afternoon, after hiking from the camping site, I spent a well deserved relaxing time at Sculptured Beach which is just one of the beaches in Point Reyes National Seashore. With waves reaching the shores and birds chirping on the cliff’s walls as the only sounds, I fell asleep laying on the sand. Around four o’clock I left the beach heading north on the Coast Trail for about a half mile to where it intersects with Woodward Valley Trail. From that intersection I continued hiking east on Woodward Valley Trail for two miles, which is in fact the entire length of the trail that connects the Sky Trail to the Coast Trail. From there, hiking just over a mile and a half going south on Sky Trail, making a slight left turn onto Baldy Trail would take me to Glen Camp Loop. That’s to say that my hike back to the campground was estimated to be approximately seven miles; the total hike for the day would be close to 15 miles. More importantly, I would arrive at the campground about an hour before sunset.

The weather was simply perfect. With temperature was in the mid seventies throughout the day, there was a pleasant breeze that carried scents of sea water, flowers, grass and the musky aroma of trees. However, something happened along the way that made me miss the sign to Baldy Trail! Instead, I continued on the Sky Trail veering west taking me back to the Coast Trail in the direction of Kelham Beach. That was a one and a half mile misstep that ultimately added a three miles round-trip to my day hike!

It was only when the sound of the waves and the ever stronger smell of salty water were getting closer and closer that I began to realize I had missed Baldy Trail. Turning around aware that at least one hour and a half was just added to my ETA at Glen Camp, I sped up my pace to avoid hiking in the dark. I managed to reach the campsite at dusk but the fast paced hike wore me out.

Wrapping up 28 miles of hiking and backpacking at Point Reyes National Park - April 26, 2016
Wrapping up 28 miles of hiking and backpacking at Point Reyes National Park – April 26, 2016

Glen Camp was not a popular site on that Monday, for I was the only person camping there on that day. Feeling tired and knowing that on the following morning I would be hiking five miles back to my car, I went to sleep early. My left eye was still itching with a growing burning sensation in the lower eyelid area.

Nonetheless, I slept well and deeply waking up at five the following morning. I dismounted the tent, packed and hit the trail. It was freezing! The temperature had dropped quite drastically in the past eight hours to only thirty-one degrees. The sun was still not hitting the trail under the trees and as I left Glen Camp . I wanted to arrive at the visitor center by or before nine o’clock. Therefore I kept a steady fast pace, stopping briefly only a couple of times to eat and rest. It was just about nine when I spotted my car.

Having completed approximately twenty-eight miles of hiking at Point Reyes National Seashore in two days, I was ready to spend the day driving. My next destination was about seven to eight hours away, if I didn’t stop too many times. I was almost certain that I had to find a hotel for the night because it would be too late to look for a place for camping overnight.

After three days without a shower it was time to enjoy the feeling of hot running water over my body. Perhaps I had come to that tipping point on the trip where I started to get great pleasures out of small, mundane things. Otherwise, such ordinary things were taken for granted in my until recent fast paced urban life. After all, a hot shower is only one more thing that we do in our daily routine.

Stopping for lunch, cappuccinos, downloading pictures, recharging camera and cellphone, and pulling over at viewpoints along the way kept me on the road much longer than anticipated. My arrival time at the targeted destination was now around nine in the evening. I was going to visit the Crater Lake National Park and Klamath Falls, Oregon was a good place to spend the night and get an early start the next morning.

The next morning I headed east of I-5 stopping Lassen Volcanic National Park. Depending on the weather conditions I would stay around or continue to Crater Lake. Although I decided for the latter, driving through the mountains toward Lassen Volcanic offered splendid views.  As I returned to I-5 N, scenic Shasta Lake and the 14,180 feet Shasta Mount Volcano with the sun setting in the background through the cloudy skies of northern California made it for a long and pleasant drive.

 

Lassen Volcanic National Park, California
Lassen Volcanic, California

The wintry landscape along with temperatures in the mid forties and upper thirties were a far cry from the Spring warmer days and brighter skies I left behind just a day earlier. I arrived at the hotel in Klamath Falls after ten o’clock and it was cold. At check-in I learned that there is no waterfalls in Klamath Falls. I was told that at a time in its past history most likely there were waterfalls around. I was also told that the restaurants in town close at nine. There was, however, a pub located in the downtown area that still might serve food until midnight.

After a much deserved and needed hot shower, I headed out in the hunt for hot food. At the pub I found out that the information given by the hotel front desk clerk was not quite accurate. The pub’s kitchen was basically closed, serving only a couple of “bar food” dishes. Although not my favorite, the fried macaroni and cheese tasted delicious and the extra calories were just what I needed at the moment.

It was April 26 and after spending eleven days in California I had made it to Oregon. I was on the road for twenty-seven days and I had just entered a new phase of the road trip.  From this point on I knew that the weather would play a substantial role in determining my route in the Pacific Northwest.

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Solitude at Point Reyes

Getting up wasn’t ease! After backpacking to Glen Camp I fell asleep early, waking up only once and briefly in the middle of the night. The gentle sound of the waves breaking on the beach a couple of miles away put me right back to sleep. I woke up sore and my legs were so sore and tight that it took me a few minutes to start moving. I checked the time and was shocked to find out that it was past nine in the morning. Had I slept for more than twelve hours?

Walking out of the tent I found that the few campers I heard the night before had already left. Except for one who was getting her backpacking gear ready for the trail, the camp was practically empty. As we said hello, I told her that I could not believe that it was almost ten o’clock. She looked at me a little confused and told me that it was only six-thirty. “Wow!” – I said!  That made more sense because I can hardly ever sleep more than eight hours.

Something made cellphone reset the time to Eastern Time! After chatting for a brief moment, we said goodbye wishing one another a great day as she strapped her backpack on and off she went. As I walked back to my tent I saw her disappearing in the woods, leaving me all alone at Glen Camp getting ready to hike along the shore.

View from the Stewart Trail - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore
View from the Stewart Trail – Point Reyes National Seashore

I was feeling really well and looking forward to hike at least ten miles. Since the trails along the shore at Point Reyes National Seashore are relatively ease, being sore shouldn’t be a problem. I knew that after my body warmed up I would be fine. While getting ready for the day’s hike, for the first time, I noticed that my left eye was itchy. I thought that I might have got some poison oak in my eye and before medicating it I sought relief by washing it with cold water.

It was a beautiful day with clear blue skies and it promised to be a great hike! I left the campground backpacking lighter than the day before, heading south on the Glen Trail, then west on Stewart Trail. Combined, the first stretch toward the shore was a hike of just over a mile and half before heading north on the Coast Trail. The strong winds from the night before seemed to have slowed down and the only sound was that of birds songs.

 

View from the Coast Trail - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore
View from the Coast Trail – Point Reyes National Seashore

I hiked for over two hours and I encountered nobody! The trails were deserted. What I noticed the day before, remained true today; the trails had not been used as the Winter was barely over. The overgrown bushes made it difficult to spot the trails closer to the ocean. Nonetheless, that was a small price to pay for the absolute solitude and peace that I was enjoying.

Located north on the Coast Trail was Arch Rock. The two-mile path to Arch Rock was a combination of meadows and marshlands with their own micro ecosystem. Birds everywhere! As I neared Arch Rock a sign posted on the trail leading to the site warned that the access to the rock had been closed due to a fatal accident at the cliff. Yes, I was disappointed! Instead of getting to Arch Rock, I sat on the cliff and admired it from a distance.  From that point, I continued on hiking north on the Coast Trail.

 

View of the shoreline on the Coast Trail - Point Reyes National Seashore
View of the shoreline on the Coast Trail – Point Reyes National Seashore

 

Kelkam Beach - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore, California
Kelham Beach – Point Reyes National Seashore, California

I had snacked a few times in the almost four miles hiked thus far, planning to stop for lunch and take a longer break at the beach. Kelham Beach was only about a mile north on the Coast Trail.

Kelham Beach - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore
Kelham Beach – Point Reyes National Seashore, California

Just as I was getting back on trail I heard someone whistling and as I turned around I saw the girl that I had talked to at the campground a couple of hours earlier. She told me that she also had not seen anyone else on the trails. Apparently we had the coastline of the park to ourselves. A few more minutes of chat and off we went in opposite directions.

 

Lunch break at Kelham Beach - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore, California
Lunch break at Kelham Beach – Point Reyes National Seashore, California

In the deserted, windy and cold beach I had my lunch consisting of canned tuna fish and a banana for dessert. After a half hour break I continued north on the Coast Trail to Sculptured Beach. The two and a half miles portion of this trail from Kelham Beach to Sculptured Beach is an ease hike with astounding views of the ocean. The cooling breeze made it a pleasant hike through the meadows with perhaps only about a quarter of a mile in a narrow wet path that was taken over by the swamp vegetation. Some of the grassy plants had long a sharp blades and except for a momentary doubt about whether or not I was still on the trail, the experience wasn’t too bad.

Arriving at the beach a barefoot walk on the cold, wet sand was refreshing and soothing. I had hiked approximately seven miles and I was in no rush to return to Glen Camp. I had no reason to return to the campground before sunset. In the more than eight hours since I started my day, I saw and spoke with only one person. This was priceless!

Sculptured Beach - Backpacking at Point Reyes National Seashore, California
Sculptured Beach – Point Reyes National Seashore, California

From the Shores to the Mountains